Japanese Fried Chicken: a New Take on Comfort Food

Christine Heriat

June 5, 2024

Crispy fried chicken pieces in a black bowl served with a side of dipping sauce on a wooden table.

I’ve always had a love-hate relationship with fried chicken. I love how it tastes and hate how completely addicting I find it. The mix of salty, crunchy exterior and soft, juicy interior is impossible to resist. And the only thing better than fresh fried chicken is munching on it day old and cold for breakfast. Not that I’ve ever done this…

It wasn’t until I lived in Australia that I tried karaage, the Japanese version of fried chicken. I was with a group of friends at Izakaya Fujiyama, Kenji Maenaka’s bar in Surry Hills. We were sampling sake as we chatted and enjoyed the bar’s lively atmosphere. Someone ordered a few dishes to share. Everything was tasty, but pairing the salty, savory fried chicken dish with sake was something else. An obsession born.

Kenji Maenaka has since sold the restaurant, and I’ve left Surry Hills for Los Angeles, but I’ve never forgotten that delicious flavor.

Karaage in society

Portuguese missionaries brought deep frying to Japan in the 17th century. But despite its early arrival, fried chicken didn’t gain widespread popularity until the 1920s, when Tokyo restaurants offered it for takeout and dine in. Its popularity grew further after World War II, as chicken imports increased to address rice and fish shortages.

Japan is now home to the Karaage Association. This group is dedicated to promoting high quality fried chicken. Their goal is to make delicious fried chicken accessible to the world through a global map. Currently, they have a map covering Japan. Every December and January, they hold the annual Karaage Grand Prix. This event allows people to submit entries in different categories, such as Bento, Secret Sauce, and Half Fried. The association’s judges then calculate the results and publish them on a map.

This amazing association also offers a written test which is used to certify “Karaagenist”, the most elite of which carry a golden business card as proof of their status. In the words of the Karaage Association, this card is to “evoke the image of chicken being fried in beautiful golden oil.” Unfortunately, I haven’t yet visited the Karaage Association, but hope to do it soon. While sampling even more karaage, of course.

Recipe history and accompaniments

I blended my American fried chicken experience with karaage techniques and ingredients to whip up this recipe. I swapped buttermilk for a soy sauce marinade to give it a deeper, traditional karaage taste. Instead of the usual flour coating, I went for potato starch seasoned with shichimi togarashi. And voila! The coating became thinner and lighter, with a delicate citrusy kick and a hint of smoky spice. It has none of the richness of American fried chicken, but still holds the familiar appeal of comfort food. This combination of comforting savory, salty and spicy crunch is what I remember tasting at Izakaya Fujiyama.

This recipe is dairy free and allows for a gluten-free variation by substituting tamari for regular soy sauce.

Shichimi togarashi is a spice blend that includes ingredients such as seaweed, ginger, various chilies, sesame seeds, and citrus peel. It doesn’t possess the intense heat of cayenne pepper, nor the mild smokiness of paprika. Instead, it falls somewhere in between. It boasts a balanced combination of heat and smokiness, along with its own unique umami flavor. Aside from using it in this recipe, I also use shichimi togarashi to add a hint of spice and smoke to quick pickled cucumbers, meatballs, and steamed edamame.

This recipe is addictive. It is difficult to enjoy anything else alongside it. However, for the sake of our sanity and health, we should try. To complement this dish, I served it alongside my recipe for Tahitian sashimi (insert link). I also threw in some pickled cucumbers, pickled ginger, and sticky rice. The pickled sides balance out the rich fried chicken. They add a raw crackle and sourness the chicken lacks, making the overall meal delicious. The chicken would go perfectly with a coleslaw of shredded cabbage, carrots, and radishes, tossed in a dressing made of yuzu or lemon, Japanese mayo, Dijon mustard, and shichimi togarashi.

If you can, see if you can find some Japanese mayo for the dipping sauce. Japanese mayo has a special eggy taste and a hint of sweetness that sets it apart from American or European mayo. The sauce is spicy, but the creamy texture evens it out.

Japanese fried chicken (karaage)

While the recipe allows for the use of boneless chicken thighs, I opted for chicken breasts as I enjoy their lighter flavor and texture. Additionally, I’ve noticed that the breast pieces vanish more quickly than the thigh pieces. Also, neither Xavier nor I are fond of nibbling around bones when indulging in finger foods. This is the same method I employ when preparing my American-style buttermilk fried chicken.

You can marinate the chicken up to 24 hours in advance, in a plastic bag to maximize the chicken’s contact with the marinade. To ensure the potato starch doesn’t become gummy, it is best to fry the chicken soon after coating it. If you have a deep fryer, it is more convenient to use that. However, if you don’t, I recommend using a deep pot with a candy thermometer clipped inside to monitor the temperature. This is because temperature plays a crucial role in achieving the desired texture – crispy but not oily. Frying the chicken at a temperature below the ideal will result in a soggy, greasy outcome, while frying it too hot will cause the exterior to burn or the interior to remain undercooked. It is also important to use neutral-flavored oil with a high smoke point, such as sunflower or peanut oil.

You don’t need to salt the chicken after it is cooked. The marinade adds the perfect amount of salt as it infuses and tenderizes the meat.

Serve the fried chicken with a tasty dipping sauce made from Japanese mayo and sriracha for an extra kick. Although it is possible to buy sriracha mayonnaise, I haven’t found one that has the creaminess of the recipe below.

The karaage recipe below is enough for four people if served with rice, salad, or other sides. But be warned—it can be highly addictive. Every time I make it, the amount consumed exceeds my expectations. If you want the pleasure of trying it cold, the next day (yes please!), I suggest doubling the recipe and hiding some… seriously.

The below recipe combines the comfort food tradition of fried chicken with Japanese ingredients to create something which brings back fond memories as well as evokes the interest that comes with exploring newer flavors. Happy fried chicken eating!

Recipe

Dipping Sauce

½ cup of Japanese mayonnaise, Kewpie or other

4 tablespoons of sriracha sauce

Marinade

1 inch of finely chopped ginger

2 cloves of finely chopped garlic

3 tablespoons of soy sauce

1 tablespoon of sake or rice wine vinegar

Chicken

1 pound (500g) of chicken breast, each breast cut into 6-8 pieces

¾ cup (170g) of potato starch

2 tablespoons of shichimi togarashi

Peanut or sunflower oil for frying

Makes 4 servings

To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a plastic resealable bag, close firmly and shake until well mixed. Add the chicken, close the bag tightly, and tip it around to ensure all the chicken is coated with marinade. Refrigerate for four hours or up to 24 hours.
Whisk the ingredients for the dipping sauce together and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Toss together the potato starch and shichimi togarashi in a bowl.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and let it drain for a few minutes in a colander.
Heat the deep fryer to 350F (180C), ensuring there is enough oil to submerge the chicken pieces entirely.
Toss the chicken with the potato starch mixture, turning them around in the starch to ensure an even, light coating.
Deep fry until the chicken is fully cooked, approximately 8-12 minutes. The outside coating should be a deep, golden brown and the inside temperature should register 165F (330C) on a meat thermometer. Drain on paper towels and then serve immediately.

For where to find certain ingredients, please explore the links below. I also can’t wait to hear what you thought after you made this recipe. I also would love to hear what you served it with or any other suggestions in the comments section below.

References and related links