Delicious Chicken, Pork and Mushroom Terrine

Christine Heriat

November 19, 2024

Terrines were not a dish I initially appreciated. Before I moved to France, I operated under the mistaken impression that a terrine was synonymous with pate, which I did not like. Part of that was because of the texture—in my world, meat should not be creamy. But most of it was because of the frequent inclusion of liver, the odor and flavor of which brings me back to childhood nightmares of liver frying in a pan. Did I mention I didn’t eat meat between the ages of eight and twenty-five?

My first introduction to terrines was during a light dinner at the home of one of Frenchy’s many relatives. This distant aunt lived in a village near Vanne, in Brittany. We arrived late for a few days’ visit there after a long drive out of Paris. We were tired and hungry. I wasn’t eager when I heard terrine and green salad was the entire menu, but I hid my lack of enthusiasm. Politesse demanded it. Besides, it was ten p.m., and I wanted to eat and sleep.

The fish terrine served that night had nothing in common with the pate of my nightmares. It tasted light and cool. Flavorful, but not fishy, with just the right amount of spice. Accompanied by a glass of crisp white wine, it was the perfect welcome. It opened my mind to the idea of terrines, which I explored enthusiastically during my next two years in France.

Recipe history

This recipe developed out a few objectives. I wanted a terrine that was easy to make with ingredients available in California. A terrine that wasn’t too finicky but tasted more complex than its simple ingredients. A terrine with an appealing texture—not too chunky, but also not too creamy, and with a bit of crunch. And, most importantly, I wanted it to fit in the lovely Le Creuset terrine dish my mother-in-law gave me for Christmas.

The recipe outlined below is one I created myself, based on tips and tricks shared by Xavier’s family. While I would never argue its place as a health food, it has been created to reduce the amount of fat and cholesterol it contains compared to more traditional family recipes. Depending on your views, that is a sad state of affairs, or a benefit. It works for us because it means we can enjoy it more often than if it were a special occasion treat. It doesn’t completely blow the heart-healthier diet we follow.

Recipe, tips & tricks

Like many simple recipes produced with few ingredients, the quality of the ingredients used in this recipe is fundamental to its success. It requires the full fat versions of ground pork and chicken to produce its texture. While 100% ground chicken provides a firmer texture and less flavor, it’s an option for those who don’t eat pork.

Morel mushrooms can be found in gourmet shops and on Amazon. Their flavor is unique enough that they’re worth seeking for this recipe. If you can’t find them, or find the price too expensive (morel prices can be crazy), dried porcini mushrooms make a strong substitute.

If you don’t have a terrine dish, another ceramic baking dish, either with a cover, or covered tightly with aluminum foil, will suffice. Be sure to poke a small hole in the foil to simulate the small hole which vents steam, which is standard in covers for terrine dishes.

Like other terrine recipes, this terrine is cooked in a bain marie, or hot water bath. The bain marie allows for gentle, even distribution of heat and prevents cracking. It’s essential to achieving the final texture.

This terrine is best made at least a day before you want to serve it because it needs that time to cure, condense, and fully develop its flavors. While it isn’t necessary to weight the terrine while it cures in the refrigerator, it does result in a consistency than lends itself better to slicing. The aspic (savory jelly) is also not necessary, but it does help preserve the terrine’s color and gives it the classic look of many terrines served in France.

It will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. It freezes well. To defrost, place a covered slice on the counter or in the refrigerator overnight. I love to keep a few slices on hand as a quick appetizer for unexpected guests or for an easy, light lunch or dinner. I prefer to serve it with a simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil and a glass of crisp white wine.

Recipe

0.5 oz dried morel mushrooms (15g)

1 shallot, finely chopped

2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tbsp cognac

¼ cup crème fraiche (50ml)

1.8 oz hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed, or roughly chopped walnuts (50g)

½ tsp white pepper or mixed peppercorns (cinq baies)

1 tsp salt (6g)

8 oz ground pork (230g)

8 oz ground chicken (230g)

2 bay leaves

1 packet of powder gelatin (optional)

Time: 20 minutes (active); 1 hour to cook and 8 hours + 4 hours to rest.

Makes 6-8 servings

Cover the morel mushrooms with 2/3 cup hot water. Leave to rehydrate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
Remove the morels from the water and set the water aside. Chop the morels.
Mix the morels, shallot, parsley, garlic, cognac, crème fraiche, hazelnuts, pepper, salt, pork and chicken in a bowl until a uniform.
Press into a terrine pan or other ceramic dish.
Top the terrine mixture with two bay leaves.
Cover the terrine dish and place it into a larger pan filled with enough hot water that it reaches approximately 1/3-1/2 way up the pan.
Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the cover and bake for another 30 minutes.
Pour the meat juices off from the terrine into a dish. Strain the morel mushroom soaking water through a fine-mesh sieve into the same dish. Refrigerate until ready to make the optional aspic.
After the terrine has cooled for 10-20 minutes, weight it and refrigerate it for at least eight hours, or up to 25 hours. The best way to weight it evenly is to use something flat, like a piece of wood, or small plate, on top of it, and place pie weights or a couple of small jars filled with water on top of that.
Sprinkle the gelatin over ¼ cup of water and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes.
Reheat the meat juice and soaking water mixture until hot, either in the microwave or stove top.
Pour the hot meat juice and soaking water mixture into the gelatin until you reach 1 cup of total liquid. Whisk to incorporate.
Remove the weights from the terrine and pour the aspic mixture over it. Cover and refrigerate until the jelly is set, up to four hours.

Even though I don’t eat a lot of meat, I do enjoy the above terrine recipe and hope you do too. Please let me know what you think of it in the comments below.

References and related links