Chocolate Hazelnut Scrolls

Scrolls, sticky buns, and cinnamon buns are not something I eat or make often. Usually, I find these types of pastries too sweet for my tastes. When at a bakery faced with the choice between a scroll or a croissant, I will always choose the croissant. Especially if the croissant is of the pain au chocolat or croissant aux amandes varieties. I’ve made both traditional croissants and pain au chocolat in the past, but don’t do it even less often than I make scrolls because I live close to Gjusta Market and Rockenwagner Bakery, both of which make excellent croissants.  

But I don’t live alone, so my less than sugary sweet tooth is not the only driver of my baking or eating habits. Frenchy’s tastes run far sweeter than mine. He has a particular soft spot for brioche, pain aux raisins (France’s version of cinnamon rolls), and escargot au chocolat (France’s sticky buns). He also suffers from a lifelong addiction to Nutella. Combine his interest in sweets with my love for bread baking, and I end up with more than enough reasons to create a recipe for Chocolate Hazelnut Scrolls. The resultant recipe is simple to make but has a balanced sweetness and pleasant crunch that makes it taste like a far more complex recipe.        

Recipe history

Recipes for scrolls and sticky buns originated prior to the 13^th century, and were first made using a yeast leavened dough sweetened with honey and dried fruits. During the 13^th century, Marco Polo introduced cinnamon into Europe. In Northern Europe, people soon incorporated the spice into recipes for cinnamon buns. These recipes are still popular today as scrolled, glazed breakfast confections. The introduction of a grocery store version by Pillsbury in 1956, followed by the successful launch of the Cinnabon chain in 1985, played a major role in popularizing this delicious treat throughout the United States.

The versions of these rolls most popular in France are like those in the United States in that they are also yeasty, buttery, breakfast breads. But they differ because they are smaller, less sweet, and either unglazed or lightly glazed. Often, they will contain nuts or dried fruit for texture. The dough, with its higher butter content, closely resemble brioche or croissants than its American counterparts. This is the version I had in mind when developing my recipe.

 Recipe, tips & tricks

I needed to address two key issues in this recipe: making the chocolate hazelnut spread more spreadable and reducing its sweetness without altering its essence. I also didn’t want to make the spread oily. Taking everything into account, I included a mix of milk for a smoother, thinner texture, and cocoa powder for a richer, less sweet taste. These changes made it possible to spread the mixture on the dough without tearing it. They also made it more satisfying for my chocoholic nature.

The dough itself, with its egg-milk-butter base, bears a loose resemblance to brioche dough. However, at only 9% butter, it remains far below the 30-50% butter found in brioche and croissant doughs. This results in a lighter dough, similar to bread in texture. It’s also sturdy, like a bread dough, which is important in making it possible to spread the chocolate hazelnut mixture over the dough without damaging it. This dough also results in scrolls which are moist without being overly rich. Because the recipe contains less butter, it works with either American or European style butter, which is not the case for many true brioche doughs. In more traditional brioche recipes, the differences in fat and water content between the two types of butter have a big impact on the outcome of the brioche recipe.   

Homemade candied nuts are worth the effort they take to make. Unlike their store-bought cousins, homemade candied nuts are sweet without being sticky. They can be flavored with additional ingredients, such as vanilla, which I add in this recipe. I also like making candied nuts myself because it allows me to vary the nuts I use, whereas the store-bought versions are most often made with a base of walnuts. While I like walnuts, in this recipe, I wanted to make hazelnuts the star, and so crafted a 100% hazelnut candied nut for this recipe.

The candied nuts are made with the aid of a candy thermometer. I know many people don’t own candy thermometers, but I find them well worth the investment. I rarely make candy or caramel, but I still find many uses for my handy clip-on thermometer. It can attach to the sides of bowls or pans, withstand high temperatures, and is dishwasher safe. For example, when I deep fry in a pan, I use it to ensure I reach and maintain the right temperature. What’s not to like about that? If you don’t have a candy thermometer, I have included pictures of the nut making process to assist you in making them by sight.

The candied hazelnut recipe makes more nuts that can be used in the scrolls, but it’s too difficult to reduce the quantity of this part of the recipe. You can keep the candied nuts in the pantry and serve them with desserts such as ice cream or brownies. Whenever I put these nuts on a cheeseboard, I find they disappear quickly.  

I also recommend using a kitchen scale so  you can work with weight rather than volume when making this (and other) bread recipes. Weights give a far more accurate result. Once you’re used to using a scale, it becomes a faster method of baking. It also allows you to use fewer dishes, since you can measure directly into the mixing bowl and tare it between additions. In this recipe, it makes working with the chocolate hazelnut spread easier, since cramming that into a measuring cup than trying to pull it out creates a sticky mess. Once you make the switch, as I did, I doubt you’ll go back to using volume measurements for baking.

It is tricky to slice the scrolls without flattening them or losing the filling. The best way to do it is to use a sharp knife which you rinse under hot water in between each slice. And don’t hesitate to smear any leaked filling along the top of the scrolls once you have laid them out on the baking sheet—no need to waste the delicious filling! Or you can imitate Frenchy, and sneak off with it and a spoon…

To allow plenty of space for their final rise, I spread out the scrolls on a large cookie sheet. Then they are lightly glazed with a mixture of apricot jam and rum. Both steps result in a finished roll that is closer to the versions found in French bakeries than the sweeter, softer rolls popularized by Pillsbury and Cinnabon.

You can assemble these scrolls the day before and refrigerate them before the final rise. To make, remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to rise for 1 1/2-2 hours in a warm spot. They also freeze well because they are not topped with a heavy glaze. Although because of their gooey, chocolaty sweetness and satisfying brioche-like texture, I rarely have enough leftover to freeze. These are best enjoyed alongside a cup of freshly brewed, strong coffee, because the mingling of the chocolaty bread with the nutty coffee is divine.

Recipe

Dough

1 tsp active dry yeast

1/3 cup + 1 tbsp (90ml) of whole milk, warmed (~100-115F)

2 tbsp (30g) sugar

2 eggs

2 ¼ (350g) cups of flour, plus more for rolling

½ tsp salt

3 tbsp (45g) of unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into 1-inch cubes

Candied hazelnuts

10.5oz (300g) of raw, unsalted hazelnuts

1/3 cup (70g) of water

¾ cup (150g) powdered sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

¼ tsp salt

Chocolate hazelnut filling

½ cup (150g) chocolate hazelnut spread, such as Nutella

2 ½ tbsp milk

1 tsp cocoa powder

Glaze

3 tbsp of apricot jam, or other lighter flavored, smoother jam

1 ½ tbsp rum

Time: 15 minutes (active); 3-4 hours including rising time.

Makes 8-10 servings

1. Activate the yeast by sprinkling it over the warm milk. Allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes, until foamy.
2. Add the yeast mixture, sugar, eggs, flour, and salt to a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook and run the mixer on its lowest speed until the dough comes together.
3. While the mixer is running, drop the butter in one cube at a time. Once it is incorporated, turn the mixer up to level 4 and knead the dough for 5 minutes.  
4. Transfer the dough to a greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled, which will take approximately 1.5 hours at warm (~75F) room temperature.
5. While the dough rises, make the candied nuts. Preheat an oven to 325F (160C). Spread the hazelnuts onto a cookie sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes, until the nuts just begin to toast. Turn them out onto a large kitchen towel. Once they are cool enough to handle, rub them inside the towel to remove their skins. Separate the nuts from the skin fragments and set to the side.
6. Add the water, powdered sugar, and vanilla extract to a medium saucepan (large enough to hold the nuts). Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce the heat to medium. Let it continue to cook until it reaches 240F (115C), then add in the nuts.
7. Stir the nut mixture continuously, just until the caramel begins to stick to the nuts and reaches an amber color. It should just begin to crystallize on the nuts. If the mixture begins cover the nuts in crystals, add in some additional water and stir to melt the crystals. Stir in the salt.
8. Spread the candied hazelnuts onto a sheet of parchment paper and allow to cool. Once they are cooled, roughly chop 1/3 of the nuts and reserve the rest for another use.
9. Combine the chocolate hazelnut spread, cocoa powder, and milk into the small bowl of a food processor, or into a blender, and process until smooth, stopping to scrap down the sides of the bowl as needed.
10. Grease a full sheet pan with butter (18in x 26in, 40cm x 60cm)
11. Turn the risen dough out onto a well-floured work surface and form it into an even cylinder. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out until a 16in X 8in (40cm x 20cm) rectangle. Transfer the dough to a large cutting board.
12. Spread the chocolate hazelnut mixture evenly across the dough, leaving a 1-inch (2.5cm) border at the edges. Sprinkle with half of the chopped candied hazelnuts.  
13. Turn the dough so that the longer side is facing you, then roll it carefully into an even cylinder. Turn it until the seam is at the bottom.
14. Slice the dough into 10 equal slices using a sharp knife. It helps to run the knife under hot water in between each slice.
15.  Arrange the sliced scrolls on the sheet with a few inches of space between each to allow space to rise.
16. Combine the jam and rum into a small sauce pan and bring to a boil. Then push the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any clumps. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops and sides of each scroll with the glaze, then sprinkle the tops with the remaining nuts.
17. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C) with a rack in the oven’s center.
18. Let the scrolls rise in a warm spot until puffy and risen, ~ 1 hour.
19. Bake the scrolls until they reach an internal temperature 190F and are lightly browned on the outside. This should take 23-30 minutes.
20. Set the scrolls on a cooling rack or cutting board to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.    

Frenchy devoured these scrolls with the gusto of a famished man. Were they similarly successful in your home? Please share your thoughts below.

References and related links

• More information on cinnamon https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1002/cassia-cinnamon
• Details on candy thermometers from one of my favorite bakers, David Lebovitz https://www.davidlebovitz.com/candy-thermometers/
• Additional information on the impact of internal temperature on bread https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/blog/2017/04/07/using-a-thermometer-with-yeast-bread
• My preferred kitchen scale  https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Stainless-Pull-Out-Display-11-Pound/dp/B000WJMTNA
• My candy thermometer https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Precision-Products-Stainless-Thermometer/dp/B00004XSC9/